Here’s a tip for anyone well adapted to cold but not heat—go in the morning! Take the first ferry, which leaves at 9 a.m.
Someone tried to stop me on the way to the ticket office and convince me to go in the afternoon, but that would have the wrong choice for me.
The trip takes about an hour. To sit on the upper level, you have to pay 10 rupees more. Either place, top or bottom seemed fine. I opted for the top.
Porters will carry you up the hill for about 1200 rupees.
I chose to walk in hopes of relieving the swelling in my feet that happened after my 20 hour fight in.
It was a hike, but doable.
I had hoped to see the rest of the island, but proved to be too harsh an environment for me. Heat, bugs, mosquitoes, seemingly abandoned dogs, monkeys, and people eyeing me, sometimes not in an entirely friendly fashion.
These people laughed at me for how I was wearing my scarf (incidentally it was like a babushka), so I questioned them about it and then took their photo.
I thought maybe it was the color or the pattern, but the concierge at the Taj said that this is how old women in remote Indian villages wear their scarves out of modesty and respect.
Later on someone really liked my scarf. So there.